Photofunzi

As a new DSLR user I was initially very confused about what all the different shooting modes were. Although the modes, symbols and icons vary from camera to camera, the main functions are essentially the same (I am going provide the information based on the T1i modes). It is important to know the fine details about all of these if you want to get the most out of your camera and maximise your creative potential. So, readers (all 4 of you) here it is, the shooting modes and what they do!

BASIC ZONES:

 Fully Automatic (green rectangle) mode: um…'nuff said? The camera controls all the functions; aperture, shutter speed, ISO,flash, white balance, metering. With a DSLR you can still focus manually, though most people use Auto-focus too.

  Portrait mode: as the name suggests, best used when shooting portraits. The camera uses a wide aperture (low f/) to create a shallow depth of field (DOF) and   blur the background. This ensures that your subject is the main focus. All other settings are also automatically controlled except for possible the drive mode (single or continuous shooting).

 Landscape mode: uses a narrow aperture (high f/) which creates a greater DOF and ensures everything is in focus. It also usually uses a slower shutter speed, making it a good mode for poorly lit scenes although a tripod may be required. Again, as the name suggests, it is best used when shooting landscapes and you want everything in focus.

 Macro (close up) mode: used for taking pictures of smaller objects (flowers, candles etc). The camera usually sets a narrow aperture, again to blur the background and emphasize the subject.

 Sports mode: used when shooting fast moving objects. A faster shutter speed is set in order to freeze the motion and avoid any blurring. Usually the camera favours a higher ISO in this mode (allows for faster shutter speeds) and the flash is not available as it can not fire and recycle fast enough. Another useful setting that is usually set automatically is the Servo autofocus. This means that the camera re-focuses as the subject moves (normally, it focuses and then holds in that position).

 Night mode: on the Canon T1i, this mode is a ‘night portrait mode’ but just for the sake of generalisation I am going to talk about just a ‘night mode’. In this case, a slower shutter speed is used and the flash normally fires automatically as well. However you should note that due to the slow shutter speeds your subject (if a person) needs to remain still for a while after the flash has fired. You may also want to consider using a tripod to avoid camera shake.

 No flash mode: I’m not sure if this is a standard mode on all DSLRS but whether it is or not, it is pretty self explanatory. It disables any internal or external flash unit and automatically sets everything else. Used in locations where flash photography is prohibited etc.

 Movie mode: this is only available on a select few cameras at the moment. I personally believe it is quite useful, especially on the entry level DSLR cameras. It usually allows a limited form of HD recording.

CREATIVE ZONES:

 Creative Auto mode: this mode is exclusive to Canon cameras and is somewhat of a combination of the Full Automatic mode and the Program mode (see later). It allows the user to change certain image properties such as whether the background is blurred or sharp and how dark or bright an exposure you want. It does this with an easy to use ‘slider’. It also allows the user to fiddle with the picture style, flash mode, exposure compensations and image formats. As mentioned, as far as I know, this is a canon only feature but if you have another model with a similar feature please leave a comment!

 Programmed exposure mode: this mode usually allows the user more control over the exposure settings (exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation) as well as the ISO, white balance, picture style, drive mode, and metering mode. It basically means that you have more control over your shot but you’re not completely on your own and the camera still controls the aperture and shutter speed.

 Shutter Priority mode: as the name suggests, this mode allows you to control the shutter speed, in addition to all the settings you can control in the Priority mode. The aperture, however, is still set by the camera depending on the shutter speed you use.

 Aperture Priority mode: with this you can set the aperture manually, as well as to all the settings as the Program mode. The camera sets the shutter speed for you depending on what aperture you use.

 Manual exposure mode: this is the most advanced mode available. The photographer can control all the above mentioned settings, aperture and shutter speed included. If your camera supports the ‘bulb’ mode, this is where you will find it. With your speed set to bulb the shutter stays open while you hold the shutter button down (a remote is usually recommended).

 Automatic Depth of Field: this is usually used when shooting a scene where there a multiple points of interest, at varying distances from the camera. The shutter speed and aperture are set automatically but the user can control all the other afore mentioned settings. It should be noted that only auto-focus can be used in this mode.

Soooo that does it! The symbols I have used are those on the Canon T1i and they vary depending on your model, but the modes themselves are all the same and work the same way.

Imagine getting into a car and trying to drive without knowing what the pedals do. Or trying to make a soufflé before you can make toast. Orrrr trying kiss a girl before practicing on the back of your hand (or was that just me??). Whatever the case may be, before you can master anything, you need to learn the basics. Which is what this post is about; all the basic terms you will come across, and their definitions, IN ENGLISH!

Shutter Speed: basically the length of time the shutter is open for (exposure time). The slower the speed, the longer it stays open, the more light that is let in (longer exposure) and vice versa. Usually, a tripod is recommended when using slow shutter speeds as camera shake is quite likely. Adjusting the shutter speed can also give you different effects for your image; a slow shutter speed will create a blur when shooting a moving object, whereas a fast shutter speed will freeze the motion giving a clear image.

slow shutter speed. photo by ibm4381

useful tip: the general rule for shutter speed is 1/focal length (of lens). This is used when you want to know at what shutter speed you can still handhold the camera. So, with a 200mm lens you should use a shutter speed of no less than 1/200. This is however, just a rule of thumb and will undoubtedly vary from person to person.

Aperture: this is usually referred to by the term "f-stop". It is the diameter of the lens opening and affects the amount of light coming through the lens. The lower the f/ number, the WIDER the aperture, the more light that comes in (and vice versa). Other than controlling the amount of light coming in, it also affects the depth of field (basically the portion of the image that appears sharp and in focus). A wide aperture (low f/) will result in a shallow DOF so the background of your subject will be blurred (good for portraits etc). A narrow aperture will cause a deeper depth of field meaning everything in the frame will be in focus and sharp (landscapes etc).

wide aperture - blurred backgroud

narrow aperture - clear background

ISO: this is the film's sensitivity to light. In the case of a DSLR it is the sensor's sensitivity and the higher the ISO, the less light is needed to take a photo. So you can see how this would be useful in situations where there is little light but you can't or don't want to use the flash. Although increasing the ISO generally results in a more grainy image (called "noise"), it can be incredibly useful and sometimes necessary in low light when you want to use a faster shutter speed or narrow aperture (it eliminates the need for a tripod in some cases). The increased noise can usually be removed (or at least improved) during post processing using a photo editing software such as Adobe Photoshop or Digital Photo Professional.

White balance: the colours in a photograph can be inaccurate due to the sources of light of in an image having different “temperatures”. Some light sources are cooler (blue or green etc) such as florescent lighting and some are warmer (yellow) such as daylight and tungsten lighting. Adjusting the white balance on your camera can compensate for this and make the colours in your photo more accurate and true.

Focusing: this is probably the most important thing for new photographers to learn. Your DSLR will allow you to change the focus point manually or you can let the camera assign one automatically. This is useful when you want to compose your picture with your subject off-centre while still ensuring it remains clear and in focus. One of the most important principles related to focus is the Rule of Thirds. This rule of thumb teaches photographers how to best compose their subjects.

Well that about sums it up. However, if you feel anything else should be included please feel free to comment!

As this is my first post EVER (thats basically my way of saying don't judge!) I figured I should say a little something about who I am and blahblahblahblah...so here it is!

I have always enjoyed photography; I was always the kid who would grab his dad's camera and started snapping shots of unappreciating people in not so flattering positions. I would be the designated camera man at family trips and I even managed to swing a gig as my cousin’s wedding photographer (for which I got paid..with a PSP haha). Despite all of this I never really took it up seriously until now.

I am now the proud new owner of a Canon T1i (as shown below) which I am loving! It seems to have inspired me to sit down and learn all the things I should have learnt years ago. All the things that any SLR user should know in order to maximize the awesome power that is a digital SLR, and get some really stunning shots. These past few weeks I have been doing a lot of reading and now I want to start sharing these helpful tidbits with all you others out there in the same situation. So if you have either had an SLR for a while, or you have just purchased one recently and you want to learn how to get the most out of it, this site is for you!